Decanter

92

A very classic estate at ease with an austere vintage such as 2019. This Bricco Ambrogio is dark ruby in colour and dark in aroma, ranging from black cherry to wild berries, with a soapy rosewater scent surrounded by spice. The palate shows a relatively light frame with soft acidity at first, then vibrant and juicy with chewy tannins. There is some stickiness due to its youth but the finish is very polished.

90

From Bruna Grimaldi comes this Barolo with violet, an earthy, restrained character, then the graceful nuances of cinnamon and pomegranate. Slightly peppery, the palate is firm, dusty and thick, with rustic extraction, refreshing acidity and balanced alcohol. It will need time to soften but I would bet on more complexity and depth with age, too.

93

Badarina is at the southernmost tip of Serralunga on soils of Serravallian origin, with vines reaching 450 metres above sea level.
Bruna Grimaldi is the reference producer for this MGA, known for its tension. Her wine is focused on extremely fresh red currants with
smoky woodland notes and coffee grounds. Fairly reductive at first, it’s lighter compared to its neighbours, revealing a crunchy palate defined by red currant fruit and some pepper. It’s quite a bit less complex than expected, but deliciously good, offering satisfying near-term drinking while you wait for it to evolve more complexity.
Drinking Window 2022 – 2030

94

Blind tasted by Aldo Fiordelli(at Alba, Hotel I Castelli, 29 Mar 2021)

The sternness of Serralunga here, at the southernmost tip of the municipality reaching 400 metres in altitude, brings tension and depth to this wine. Badarina is not that well known considering its quality. Its two amphitheatres of vines lie on the eastern flank of the commune, bordering other Serralunga MGAs Francia, Falletto and Boscareto. Bruna Grimaldi is a family estate based on the Roddino road, and Badarina is one of its most representative wines. Restrained red berries, smoky woodland and spicy, peppery minerality lead to a full bodied and powerful palate, not at the expense of finesse, however. It presents firm, austere tannins and racy acidity, supported by bright, fresh red berry flavours and completed by a liquorice finish. This ageworthy wine will develop more complexity with bottle ageing.

Drinking Window 2021 – 2020

92

Tasted by Michaela Morris(at Vancouver, 31 Aug 2020)
Part of The brilliance of Piedmont Barbera wines

Grimaldi’s Scassa is blended from the estate’s low yielding Barbera holdings in the townships of Roddi, La Morra, Diano d’Alba and Sinio, and aged in a combination of tonneaux and large barrels. A gorgeous nose of lavender, thyme, fennel and violet leads to the appealing dark-fruited palate. Full without being heavy, ripe cherry is lifted by a twist of citrus. It’s slightly clingy, though fine tannins provide support. This could do with a bit more length but is stunning in its exuberance and purity.

Drinking Window 2020 – 2024

93

Of the three single-vineyard Barolos produced at this estate, the Badarina – from 2ha at 450 metres in Serralunga – is usually the finest. It is aged in large casks and tonneaux. Very ripe raspberries and dried herbs infuse the nose. The palate is voluptuous, full-bodied and velvety, perhaps a touch broad for Barolo but it displays impressive weight of fruit. Lively acidity on the finish should ensure a good future.

Drinking Window 2021 – 2038

91

Bruna Grimaldi and her family use organic principles when they farm their Serralunga vineyards, but the estate is not certified. Badarina can show more freshness than other Serralunga sites thanks to its elevation and varied expositions. The nose here is delicate and poised, with red fruits and a hint of liquorice. The attack is delicate but the tannins emerge on the mid-palate to balance a core of ripe fruit that is very appealing. This is balanced, subtle and long. Drinking Window 2020-2036.

93

Warm, inviting nose of spicy red fruit and cherry menthol. Long but elegant and poised, with beautifully precise red fruit. Impressive stuff, with lots of room for development.

91

Simone Grimaldi is now taking over from his mother Bruna. Although based in Grinzane Cavour, one of their best wines comes from Badarina in Serralunga. It has a lightly toasty nose, with a slight baked character and aromas of red fruits, cherries and menthol. It shows concentration with firm underlying tannins, and is still austere and rather grippy, but the finish is spicy, complex and long. Drink 2020-2032.

89

In contrast to their more austere wine from Badarina in Serralunga, the Bricco Ambrogio from Roddi comes from a warmer site and delivers a more approachable wine. It has a heady cherry nose with ample juicy fruit and a light balsamic tone. It’s suave, forward and upfront, yet doesn’t lack tannin or balance, showing some spice on the fairly long finish.

92

Although from a lofty site, this has a sweet nose reminiscent of Hungarian cherry soup. Medium-bodied, this is graceful and lively, although there are firm underlying tannins to remind one of its Serralunga origin. Intense and very long. Drink 2019-2028.

90

Playful nose of wood spice with full, round underlying ripe fruti aromas. Pungently floral with mouthcoating tannins but the finish is clean and dry – not drying. Has real staying power.