Wine Enthusiast

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Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with ripe berries, leather and a whiff of hazelnut. On the full-bodied, concentrated palate, velvety tannins envelope dried cherry, licorice, coffee bean and the warmth of evident alcohol. Drink 2024–2029. KERIN O’KEEFE

94

Rose, crushed mint, camphor and new leather aromas mingle with ripe dark-skinned fruit. Full-bodied and enveloping, the concentrated palate offers fleshy black cherry, licorice and tobacco alongside the warmth of alcohol. Velvety tannins envelope the rich flavors. It finishes on a salty note. Drink 2022–2029. KERIN O’KEEFE

92

This opulent red has aromas of baked plum, toasted hazelnut, menthol and dark spice. The aromas carry on to the bold, concentrated palate along with licorice, the warmth of evident alcohol and a saline note. Showing the heat of the vintage, it’s brawny and already accessible. Drink through 2027. KERIN O’KEEFE

97

Woodland-berry, eucalyptus, star anise and new leather aromas are front and center on this radiant red. Firmly structured, the youthfully austere palate shows Marasca cherry, strawberry compote and licorice accompanied by assertive, fine-grained tannins that need a few more years to fully unwind. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced and lends great aging potential. Drink 2026–2056. KERIN O’KEEFE

92

Mature dark-skinned berry, eucalyptus and rose aromas lead the nose on this full-bodied, enveloping red. On the densely concentrated velvety palate, close-grained tannins surround fleshy black cherry, baked plum and licorice alongside the warmth of alcohol before a clenching finish. Drink 2024–2031. KERIN O’KEEFE

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92

Camphor, cedar, coconut and dried aromatic herb aromas take shape in the glass. The firmly structured, full-bodied palate evokes cherry marinated in spirits, cassis, espresso and star anise alongside the warmth of alcohol. Assertive, fine-grained tannins provide the framework.

92

Camphor, pressed rose, dried herbs and a whiff of French oak shape the nose. On the full-bodied palate, licorice, espresso and tobacco notes accent a core of dried Morello cherry, while taut, close-grained tannins and fresh acidity provide the framework. Drink 2021–2033.

90

Aromas of black-skinned berry, black spice and a whiff of eucalyptus lead the nose. Austere and firmly structured, the palate offers dried black cherry, espresso and licorice set against tightly knit, close-grained tannins. You’ll also notice the warmth of evident alcohol on the close.

93

Camphor, wild rose, botanical herb and star anise aromas form the nose. Focused and polished, the linear palate offers juicy sour cherry, cranberry, licorice and a hint of nutmeg, while fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity provide elegant support. Best 2022–2030.

93

Dark-skinned berry, rose, dark spice and menthol aromas mingle together in the glass. On the full-bodied palate, youthfully austere fine-grained tannins give taut polished support to juicy Marasca cherry, ranberry, licorice and a sprinkling of cinnamon. It’s still young and needs a few more years to fully develop. Drink 2024–2034.

94

Aromas of menthol, balsamic herb, exotic spice and a floral note lead the nose. On the full-bodied palate, assertive close-grained tannins provide the backbone for dried black cherry, licorice and espresso. Drink 2022–2032.

90

Aromas of crushed herb, pressed violet, and camphor lead the way while the palate evokes sour cherry, coffee and vanilla. Taut fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity offer the tight framework. Drink after 2023.

92

Iris, rose and woodland berry take center stage on this full-bodied red. It’s elegant and structured, doling out strawberry compote, raspberry, licorice and a hint of coffee. Fine-grained tannins provide polished support. Drink 2022–2029.

97

A balsamic note of menthol, dark culinary spice, crushed herb, new leather and wild berry aromas come together in the glass. Firmly structured but extraordinarily refined, the palate doles out red cherry, crushed strawberry, tobacco and cinnamon set against tightly woven refined tannins. Lively acidity lends balance and energy while a licorice note wraps around the lingering finish. Drink 2025–2043.

93

Intense aromas of menthol, pressed rose, dark spice, new leather and wild berry take shape on this fragrant full-bodied red. Concentrated and structured, the dense palate delivers Marasca cherry marinated in spirits, licorice and a hint of exotic spice framed in firm refined tannins.

93

Fragrant and refined, this shows enticing aromas of wild herb, rose petal, dark spice, red berry and a whiff of camphor. Luminous and elegant, the vibrant palate has juicy Marasca cherry, cranberry, star anise and white pepper while bright acidity and taut polished tannins provide the framework. It’s still young but already possesses terrific poise. Drink 2021–2033

90

Intense aromas of rose, chopped aromatic herb and a balsamic note set the tone on this fragrant red. It’s fresh and linear, offering sour cherry, clove and cranberry flavors framed in fine-grained tannins. Notes of espresso and sage add depth to the finish.

89

Mature berry, blue flower, toasted oak and a whiff of cake spice lead the nose. The ripe, full-bodied palate offers stewed cherry, raspberry jam, vanilla, espresso and a licorice note alongside assertive, close-grained tannins that leave a drying finish. It closes on a raisin note.

92

This opens with earthy, almost funky aromas that recall new leather, tilled soil, truffle and a whiff of game. The palate is still youthfully austere, offering dried black cherry, baking spice and chopped herb alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink 2020–2028.

89

Aromas of menthol, blue flower and dark berry lift out of the glass. The tannic palate is still primary, offering tart sour cherry and star anise while a hint of dried sage closes the firm finish.

90

This offers pretty aromas of fragrant blue flower, rose and wild berry. The tightly wound palate shows Morello cherry, coffee and a hint of dried herb alongside close-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2024.

94

Enticing aromas of rose, violet, mature berry and a whiff of leather lead the way on this structured red. The full-bodied palate offers layers of dried black cherry, leather, tobacco and grilled herbs, supported by a backbone of firm, ripe tannins. Hold for even more complexity. Drink 2018–2028.

92

Dark berry, tilled soil and grilled herb aromas lead the nose while the solid palate offers juicy black cherry, mocha, espresso and licorice. Firm, polished tannins and fresh acidity provide balance and structure. Drink 2018–2026.

91

This robust wine opens with aromas of red berry, tilled earth, dark baking spice and a balsamic note. The ripe, hearty palate delivers syrupy black cherry, juicy raspberry, clove and anisette alongside firm tannins. Despite the tannic structure, the dense fruit and warmth of alcohol make it already almost accessible. Drink 2017–2026.

91

Sage, underbrush, leather and crushed flower aromas lead the nose. The palate offers black cherry, coffee, espresso and subtle oak alongside packed tannins that need to time to unwind. Drink 2018–2038.

92

Savory sensations of bright red cherry, balsamic herbs, red rose, iris, leather and earth are highlights. The fresh, vibrant palate displays succulent red and black cherry alongside notes of spice, vanilla and subtle oak. Bracing but fine tannins and fresh acidity bestow great energy.

93

Rose, violet, perfumed berry and cake spice aromas lead the nose on this sleek, elegant Barolo. The vibrant palate is loaded with crunchy red cherry, juicy raspberry, cinnamon and savory herb. Firm but polished tannins and fresh acidity provide the framework. Drink 2018–2030.

92

This structured Barolo opens with underbrush, porcini mushroom, truffle and leather aromas. The palate delivers succulent black cherry flavors, balsamic notes and well integrated oak, The rich flavors and big tannins easily support the 15% alcohol. Drink after 2018 for more complexity.

89

At first this isn’t very expressive but it opens in the glass to reveal berry, prune, underbrush and balsamic aromas. The palate shows sweet cherry flavors layered with coffee and espresso notes.

92

Bruna Grimaldi and her family present a delicious wine with bright spice and crisp fruit backed by a very distinct note of sweet marzipan. Balsam endnotes of rosemary, ginger and cola give the wine lift and buoyancy on the finish.

90

Dry and sophisticated, this delivers aromas of dried fruit, ginger, spice and cola. There’s a hint of Christmas spice that gives the wine a touch of softness and warm succulence on the finish.

94

Barolo Badarina deserves praise for the intensity of its aromas and the fine quality of its mouthfeel. Bold oak tones of spice and toasted hazelnut will soon fall to the back of the wine’s bright fruit and cola flavors. Give it time, patience and drink after 2018.

91

Bruna Grimaldi is a boutique winery that shows great promise for the future. The wine’s delicate nuances of forest fruit, cola, pressed violets, white chocolate and coffee are what set it apart. In the mouth, this elegant Barolo offers a tight, streamlined feel.

93

Barolo Badarina is a soft, velvety wine with loads of spice, vanilla and clove. Those pleasurable aromas are woven between lively notes of fresh fruit and crushed mineral. The wine is supple, rich and opulent on the close. Cellar it five years or more.

92

This Barolo exhibits sweet aromas of berry fruit, Christmas spice and vanilla. It’s a bold, confident wine with a smooth but firm quality in the mouth that hits all the right marks. Pair this Barolo with marinated lamb and dried fig jelly.

93

Badarina is a newer cru, with slightly higher altitudes, that benefits from southeastern exposures. This expression exhibits density and high extraction with excellent intensity and staying power. The wine is modern, plush, decadent and ripe with black fruit, cola, smoked meat and pretty balsam notes. Hold it in your cellar five or more years.

90

We preferred Bruna Grimaldi’s 2004 expression of the Badarina cru, although we could appreciate this wine’s bold, meaty style. The aromas are deep and penetrating and recall crushed clove, eucalyptus, ash, cured meat and beef jerky. The wine has a long, mineral finish and lingering flavors of black fruit and smoke.